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Mountaineering -
Peak Climbing |
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Mera Peak
( 6,476m/21,247ft ) |
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The bulk of Mera, officially the highest of
Nepal’s permitted trekking peaks, ries to the
south of Everest and dominates the watershed
between the wild and heavily woded valleys of the
Hinku and Hongu Drangkas . Mera (Peak) is a chance
to venture into a little visited and as yet
unspoilt region of Nepal where the hillsides are
still densely forested and a need to be
self-sufficient is essential. There is also, of
course, the pleasure of going above 21,000 feet.”
Both the Hongu and Hinku valleys remain
uninhabited although there are Kharka in the Upper
Hinku basin where Sherpa from the South, near
Pangkongma, graze their animals during the grass-
growing monsoon. The upper Hongu Basin is truly a
mountain wilderness, a place of massive moraines,
glacial lakes and spectacular peaks that include
Charmlang and Baruntse.
Additionally, it offers some of the most
spectacular mountain scenery, pristine forest, and
high altitude climbing in the world. We start this
climb with a hair-raising flight into the small
town of Lukla at 2,800 m (9,184 ft). From there it
is a six-day trek, with plenty of acclimatization
days to keep us healthy at our ever-increasing
altitude, through some of Nepal’s most pristine
Rhododendron, oak, silver fir and birch forests,
past beautiful alpine lakes, and finally up to the
foot of Mera Glacier where we’ll establish base
camp. We’ll set up two more high camps, the first
over 300 m above B.C. on the Mera Glacier, and the
second after we cross the Mera crevasse field at
5,800 m. From here it is a steady and steep climb
to reach the summit, with awe-inspiring views of
Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east, Everest and
Lhotse to the north, and Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu to
the west. |
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Island Peak
(
3189m / 2030 ft ) |
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This peak
offers an enjoyable climb the peak, also provides some
of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. If the peak
can be likened to an Island in a glacial sea, than the
main land forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise in the
north to the rugged summit of Nuptse ( 7879m/ 25850ft ),
Lhotse ( 9501m/27870ft), Lhotse middle peak( 8410m/
27590ft), as yet still unclimbed and Lhotse Shar (
8383m/ 27503ft ). To the east, rising above the frozen
waves of the Lhotse Shar glacier, is Cho polu( 6734m/
22093ft ), beyond which can be seen the red granite mass
of Makalu ( 8475m/ 27805ft). To the south of the Imja
glacier and icy flutings of Baruntse ( 7720m/ 25328ft)
and the Amphu peaks lead the eye to the lofty pinnacle
of Ama Dablam ( 6856m/ 22493ft ), which is liked a giant
sea – stack guarding the entrance to the glacial bay in
which Island peak stands |
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Tharpu
Chuli
( 5500m
/ 18045ft ) |
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Situated in
the heart of the Annapurna Sanctuary, Tharpu Chuli is an
attractive mountain; part of the eidge line, thrown
south from Glacier Done, that includes Singu Chuli and
acts as a central divider between the semi-circle of
peaks enclosing the Sanctuary. The mountain is sometimes
confused with Rakshi peak, a small summit and viewpoint
to the west of Tharpu Chuli, that stands above named
after Roberts’ dog!
As well as enjoyable climbing the mountains offers one
of the outstanding viewpoints of the Annapurna massive.
From its summit you have a superb panorama of Hiunchuli
(6331m/20771ft), Annapurna South (7219m/ 23684ft), Fang
(7647m/ 25089ft), Gangapurna (7455m/ 24459ft), Annapurna
III (7555m/ 24787ft), Machhapuchhare (6993m/ 22943ft)
and of course Singu Chuli or Fluted Peak (6501m/
21329ft).
Seen from the moraines above the huts at the Annapurna
South base camp, the mountain takes on a shape, aptly
described by its former name Tent Peak, with its long
South-East Ridge forming the sloping ridge pole. The
lower half of the South-West Face is a series of rocky
gullies and buttresses giving way to strongly etched
snow flutes. Under a lot of snow this gecomes a very
attractive aspect indeed with a good number of lines.
The North-West Ridge, itself the normal line of ascent,
which is gained by the flat glacier to the west.
Tharpu Chuli’s relatively low altitude and reasonable
approach, without serious objective danger, make this an
attractive mountain, especially when combined with its
position and ease of access. At present three routes
have been recorded and many more are obviously possible.
Because of the large number of climbing expeditions that
enter the Sanctuary it might well be the peak has
received a lot of unnoticed attention. |
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Pisang peak
( 6091m
/ 19983ft ) |
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Seen from
Pisang the peak rises from yak pastures above the
village in a uniform slope to the final summit pyramid,
which is an undistinguished snow and ice slope. Looked
at from above Ongre, the peak is a little more
interesting and can be seen as a curved ridge, with the
faces above Pisang being the truncated southern end of
the mountain. This is made up of steeply titled rock,
the dip slope of which faces the valley and is well seen
in this peak and the great rock slabs further down the
valley.
The peak obviously has a lot of scope for exploration
and pioneering the whole of the western flank, which is
guarded by hanging glacier, would appear to offer a
considerable challenge, whilst a traverse of the whole
summit ridge, which connect to a more northern summit
before curving back west looks a superb possibility.
Access to the western end of the ridge, however, looks
problematical as the ridge as guarded by huge rock
slabs, a feature on this side of the valley. |
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