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Mountaineering -
Peak Climbing |
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Singu Chuli
(
6501m / 21328ft ) |
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Singu
Chuli is the mountain formerly known as Fluted
peak. A few days after, enjoying that view of “
Fluters”, wilf Noyce and David Cox went on to make
the first ascent of this attractive and difficult
mountain by its North-East Face and the top
section of the East Ridge. Despite the relative
ease of access to the Sanctuary this mountain has
proven too difficult for most commercial climbing
groups who have tended to concentrate their
efforts on Tent Peak.
As you approach the Sanctuary and reach the simple
lodges at Machha-puchhare base camp little can be
seen of the mountain, which is toward the head of
the valley, cradling the West Annapurna Glacier
.It is the first summit on the long ridge thrown
down from Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome), which
separates the South and West Annapurna Glaciers.
The approach to the first ascent route follows a
shelf and a trough above the west bank of the West
Annapurna Glacier, skirting round the base of the
mountain’s rocky east ridge to gain the foot of
the North-East Face, which is unseen, even from
the moraines above the lodges.
Perhaps the best distant view of the mountain is
from Annapurna South base camp. From the moraines
above the lodges the fluted South Face presents a
‘beautiful shape, buttressed by pencil-shadowy
ridges of snow and ice’ well seen, rising above
the ridge connecting it with Tharpu Chuli.
To date, apart from the original route, most
efforts to climb the mountain have concentrated on
the face and ridges seen from this viewpoint. The
South-West Ridge, the one that ultimately connects
to Tent Peak, is an obvious, albeit corniced, line
although a far more complicated connecting ridge
than at first at first it appears. The terrain
between the two peaks is quite confused and not at
all a straightforward ridge. The fluted face to
the right of the ridge, although menaced in places
by ice bulges and seracs is set at a reasonable
angle and appears an attractive proposition.
However, despite rumours that routes have been
made on these, no route descriptions have been
made available and the NMA have no record of
ascents. |
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Dhampus peak
( 6012m / 19,725ft ) |
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Situated in
the heart of the Dhawalagiri region, Dhampus peak is an
interesting peak for climbers. The path to High Plains
Viewpoint is part of an adventurous trail to Dhampus-pass,
from where a gently rising slope leads to Dhampus-peak.
Though the mountain exceeds the 6000-meter frontier, no
technical climbing is involved to reach the summit.
Nevertheless, impressive surroundings of seven and eight
thousenders make this undertaking a real Himalayan
adventure. This peak provides you more than thirty
mountain views and as well as Dgawalagiri glacier and
deepest gorge of the world |
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Kusum Kanguru
( 6,369m / 20,896ft ) |
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This
impressive rock and ice peak dominates the southern end
of the Charpati Himal, which separates the valley of the
Dhudh Kosi from the upper reaches of the Hinku – Drangka.
The northen end of this chain is dominated by the
spectacular fangs of Kangtega( 6779m/22241ft) and
Thamaserku( 6608m/21680ft). Kusum Kanguru is well hidden
until you get out of the valley, although it can be
glimpsed from the Namche trail at Ghat, from where the
west and south-west faces can be seen up the valley of
the Kusum Drangka. A complex, triple summited mountain,
Kusung Kanguru, also spelt Kusum Kanguru, has at least
five major ridges, and as many faces, of which the north
faces of the main summit is the most awesome. The name
Kusum Kanguru( or more correctly Kusum Kangri) comes
from Tibetan, meaning “ three snow peaks”.
Kusum Kanguru has the reputation for beings the most
difficult without doubt increased by the level “
trekking peak” , with all that entails. It can in no
way, even by its most moderate route, be compared with
the more straight forward climbs on summit such as
Island, Mera, or Pisang for instance. The climbing is
technically difficult, needing a high degree of
commitment and experience. Where as many Nepal’s peaks
are ideal for well- led groups with limited experience,
this mountain is not. |
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Yala Peak
( 5500 m / 18,045ft ) |
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This peak is
situated north of Kathmandu in Langtang area. This is an
easy peak to climb and suited for anyone with trekking
experience. We start in Syabrubesi after a 5 hour drive
from Kathmandu and spend five days hiking up the
beautiful Langtang valley to Kyanjin Gompa at 3800 m.
Kyanjin Gompa is situated below Langtang Lirung (7246 m)
and we spend three days acclimatizing taking day-hikes
in spectacular surroundings. We establish base camp on a
meadow at 4800 m and climb Yala Peak the next day. The
last 400 m is on ice so we will be using crampons, ice
axe and rope. From the summit we can see Shishapangma
(8046 m) and the fluted Gangchempo (6388 m). After the
climb we return to Syabrubesi and drive to Kathmandu. |
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